The instructions for assembling the Pi v3 and the previous acrylic Pi SAFE are quite similar. The only difference between the models is the location of the LED light pipes, so these Pi3 instructions apply generally to all Pi SAFE versions.
1. Your Parts!
8 x 4-40 nuts
8 x 4-40 x 3/8" bolts
2 x Clear acrylic light-pipes
4 x Black acrylic spacers
6 x Black acrylic SAFE sides (shown here with brown protective paper already removed)
0 x Raspberry Pi (sorry - not included in the kit!)
2. The Baseplate
Find 4 of the 4-40 x 3/8" bolts, and put them through the baseplate, and press the spacers on from the other side. Thee bolts will sort of stay put until you can get the Raspberry Pi on the baseplate. (If adding to a VESA mount, do only 2 diagonal screws)
3. Adding the Raspberry Pi
Slide the Raspberry Pi onto the bolts. The Pi is designed for metric M3 hardware, but we're still using imperial #4 hardware, which is a smidge bigger. The bolts may need to be screwed through the holes in the Pi.
Add the #4 nuts, and tighten them down.
4. Adding 3 of the 4 Sides
Arrange the sides as shows. The sideplate on the top in this image has the long cutout to accommodate a ribbon cable from the 40-pin expansion port. The front faceplate on the right (with the label engravings face-down) is for the communications side. The sideplate on the bottom has the ports for the power, video, and audio I/O.
Align them all up on the baseplate, and use a pair of 4-40 nuts and bolts to lock them in place.
5. Adding the SD-Card / LightPipe Faceplate
Lay the final side faceplate face-down beside the assembly, and pop the clear lightpipe parts out of their holder. It is not necessary to strip the paper off this part.
Sandwich the two lightpipes together, and push them into the lightpipe indicator hole. They will sit a bit loose until the faceplate is attached to the baseplate.
Carefully assemble this assembly to the baseplate, and finish attaching it with the remaining 4-40 nuts and bolts.
Step 6: Top Plate mounting
Notch the top plate into the slots in the rear faceplate, and gently flex the frontplate out to let the tab snap into place. You're ready to power up, with full access to the indication LEDs on the Pi mainboard via the lightpipes!
Hey everyone - if you're still scrambling to find that certain something for that certain somebody we might just have what you're looking for. For a limited time when you purchase a HexPummer Lantern we'll throw in a bonus shell for FREE. You'll get to choose the colour and theme for two lantern shells/sleeves so […]
Finally got them through the Pick and Place machine, tested, and ready to go. Check out the blue and green versions! (We're still kicking around a VU-type Greeeeen/Yel/RED version too. What do you think?) By the way, we've got some pretty decent sample code on how to use your Ardweeny Backpack (and thusly, any Arduino-compatible) […]
At Solarbotics, we've been getting quite a few questions regarding the "real-world" performance of our solarcells. Although we do have the official Panasonic Sunceram datasheets, it is written in a quite technical manner and does not include practical design data.
Well, 50 years ago today, the Regency TR-1 transistor radio was unleashed on the masses. As the first transistor-based radio on the market, it made a splash. And here we are, 50 years later, making robots out of the same technology. Regenchy TR-1, Solarbotics salutes you!
Solarbotics has been operating for more than 25 years, bringing electronics know-how and supplies to both the electronics professional and hobbyist. We'll be happy to help you too!
Solarbotics, Ltd. is not responsible for misprints or errors on product prices or information. For more information, please see our Terms and Conditions.
Warning: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Please visit www.P65Warnings.ca.gov for more information. This item was manufactured prior to August 31, 2018.