This is truly the Ultimate BrutusBot! It will do robotic front flips through the snow and keep on going! Trust us on this one, we have the YouTube video to prove it. On top of that - save ~$10 (7.5%) over buying the parts individually.
The Ultimate Brutusbot Bundle is an Arduino-based platform that comes with everything (well, "batteries not included" still applies) you need to build your own functional Tank style Robot. This Do-it-Yourself Kit gives you the satisifaction of putting all the components of the robot together yourself, and each piece comes with it's own detailed manual to walk you through each build. This kit comes with a Sharp Infrared Distance Sensor and Panning servo to immediately allow your robot to easily avoid obstacles within a full 180 degrees from the front of the Brutusbot. This sensor/servo combo makes it quite simple to get out corners and other sticky situations. The onboard LM1084 provides multiple servos with the voltage they need to operate (5V) and the ease of using any battery voltage between 6.5V - 16V. There are also multiple accessories available like the Armor Enhancement Kit, and the SAFE to keep your precious electronics out of harm's way.
Please Note: For beginners we recommend building the Tamiya twin motor gearbox in configuration 'A' as it's the easier of the 2 configurations to put together. Be aware that the 16V maximum is a limitation of the 16V rated 220uF input capacitor on the Freeduino. Also note that when placing the CMDR shield inside a SAFE you'll have to bend the L298 back a little in order to place the lid on it.
Another Note: Keep in mind when interfacing the Freeduino & CMDR shield that we designed the CMDR shield to be R3 header compatible but unfortunately the Freeduino hasn't caught up to this standard. For the time being we are advising to either bend the pins outward on the side with the Freeduino caps that are in the way or snip them off if you don't need them. One pin doesn't make a connection it can be snipped without consequence, the other is a I/O refernce (5V) pin that isn't actually utilized at this time so it can be snipped too if you'd like. The SDA and SCL pins hanging off the other side can just be left as they don't interfere with anything.